A merry maritime in Greenwich

Oh England. England, England, England, with your soggy summers and bitterly disappointing football scores, we do still love you. And what better way to remind ourselves of just how much we love you than to pay a visit to a royal borough to experience your heritage and parks in all their rich green lush splendidness, to seek out some hidden gem of gastronomic delight in a tavern where we might replenish our spirits by feasting on seasonal fare, slaking our thirsts with an extensive wine list and chugging down a selection of hand-pumped ales? No better way.

For some inspiration on visiting Greenwich for a day out, one might consider taking the ferry boat from Westminster pier so as to soak in the sights along the way. It’s a great way to see parts of London you might not usually get to witness, and there is also a guide on board to talk you through some of the history and points of interest.

Once at the historic naval heart of Britain that is Greenwich, there is a raft of things to see and do. You can visit the National Maritime museum and learn about England’s rich maritime past, or the Royal Observatory and planetarium to learn about star charting, and pop off on a voyage through the universe. I’m rather intrigued by the show “Back to the moon for good” which chronicles the efforts of teams to win the Google Lunar XPRIZE, for which they must land a robotic spacecraft on the Moon, navigate 500 meters over the lunar surface, and send video, images and data back to Earth. “This global competition is designed to spark imagination and inspire a renewed commitment to space exploration, not by governments or countries – but by the citizens of the world.”

Of course there is the legendary Cutty Sark, a Grade 1 listed dry docked clipper vessel with a fascinating history. As wikipedia tells us: “Willis considered that the bow shape of Tweed was responsible for its notable performance, and this form seems to have been adopted for Cutty Sark. Linton, however, felt that the stern was too barrel-shaped and so gave Cutty Sark a squarer stern with less tumblehome. The broader stern increased the buoyancy of the rear of the ship, making it lift more in heavy seas so it was less likely waves would break over the stern, and over the helmsman at the wheel. The square bilge was carried forward through the centre of the ship.” Clear on that are we? Yes, thank you midshipman, clear as the waters of the Baltic.

Lazy good-for-nothing-but-strolling-and-lolling folk may might consider the rolling green hills and woodland of Greenwich Park, and once again – yes you guessed it, rich history, royal heritage, glorious open green spaces. Yet this is the Culinary World Tour, a website devoted to finding you the best of the best places in which to dine as well as inspiration for travel, so the question remains, where to sojourn for supper?

I had occasion to dine on a tasting menu at The Guildford Arms, and let me tell you, well, just let me tell you ok? The ethos of sourcing is bang on the money, being local and seasonal. Fish comes in from Billingsgate market every morning, meat is all British and mostly from the South East of England, herbs and vegetables come from New Covent Garden market as well as those they grow themselves in their spacious sunken garden. As I settled and downed a pint of Exmoor Gold which was their seasonal ale and one of my all time favourites, I looked around at the spacious interior designed by architect partner Jon Hallett, musing that their description of the building being a handsome Georgian gastropub was indeed accurate. I imagined moustached and bearded gentlemen of the Admiral’s fleet, sat stuffing pipes and puffing away here back in the day, exchanging tales of derring-do on the ocean wave and slapping each other across their broad shoulders as they’d throw down rum and gin and sing salacious songs.

It’s always refreshing when the food that arrives on your plate is as good or better as it reads on the menu, even when it does read well on the menu, and such was the case at the Guildford. Flavours were well balanced and overall I got the sense that the ingredients came first. It is that sort of mild-mannered respect for nature that typifies modern British gastronomy in my incredibly humble yet dashingly handsome opinion.

Pork and chorizo meatballs were soft and succulent, a tomato and marjoram salsa, silky smooth and subtly smoky in flavour. Tiger prawn and langoustine was the freshest I’ve had in some time, the langoustine so evocative of the sea that you could almost hear the clatter of buckets and spades and the waves lapping at the shore. A lively lime and Pernod dressing was the creative touch that gave the dish substance.

 

Fresh tagliatelle with broad beans and smoked pancetta came bathed in ricotta and wild garlic, lifted by lemon and sage oil. This may have been the winning dish for me as the smoky creaminess of the sauce was just perfect alongside the delicate crunch of beans that swam in amongst reeds of super fresh pasta.

Spiced coley with red lentil dhal didn’t have quite the same wow factor for me but was a perfectly acceptable and very healthy dish. In essence, a light and delicate piece of fish with some vegetable curry.

Marinated Kentish lamb chump was also something of a show stealer as the lamb simply hollered tenderness and had great depth of flavour. This was a lot to eat in the space of a couple of hours, but we all managed to save room for a delightful baked chocolate cheesecake which rounded things off nicely. I would definitely go back for more, and if you’re looking for a stunning garden in which to dine on such delights, The Guildford Arms is the place for you. Highly recommended!

The Guildford Arms

55 Guildford Grove,
Greenwich,
London,
SE10 8JY

020 8691 6293

 

 

 

Tootle on to Tooley Street

We in the West are privileged. Very much so. In global terms, it’s almost obscene how privileged many of us are. We have employment opportunities galore, good quality housing, sanitation, water and praise be, we have plenty of food. Or at least most of us do. There is of course a percentage of people who at some point in their lives will struggle to break even, and may reach as far down as rock bottom. No job, possibly no home to live in, and little prospect of finding housing or work. It’s a frightening thought, and one I’ve personally faced; however I was fortunate enough to have family who helped me to pick up the pieces. Not everybody is so fortunate. So what on earth does this have to do with a restaurant review? To put it simply, Brigade bar and bistro is a social enterprise which trains and supports jobless and homeless people, equipping them with kitchen skills, life skills and jobs in the exciting world of catering. So much more than just a place to eat; Brigade is an eaterie where one can take satisfaction in the knowledge that the proceeds from your dining experience are helping to drive social change and improve the lives of individuals less fortunate than ourselves, it’s a shining beacon in a sea of gratuitously self-satisfied gluttons who make it their business to simply gorge and waffle (I’m blushing by this point, being both gorger and waffler). 

The food is outstanding too. Don’t be fooled into thinking that the skills these apprentices are taught are somehow sub-standard, or that ingredients are processed to cut costs; this is certainly not the case. As bistros go, Brigade is what you might call high end, with a relaxed, casual feel, and a buzz that you won’t find in a formal restaurant, owed in part to the open plan theatre kitchen and a bar section that runs directly alongside the main space. I couldn’t find fault in any single aspect of the decor, the service, the menu, the food and drink or the prices. The group of fellow writers I dined with had similarly positive experiences with their dishes, and were also enamoured by the venue and principles that underpin the success of the establishment and enterprise. 

I piled into South Coast seafood cocktail topped with Cromer crab and Chase vodka sauce, which was nothing short of excellent. The seafood was exquisitely fresh and lightly shredded, layered on a base of smooth and light dressing with a subtle edge of creaminess. For the main I chose the 10 oz ribeye with watercress salad, baked tomato, meat glaze and Hermitage sauce. Not the most adventurous of dishes to choose, considering what else was on offer, but I had a craving and boy was I glad for that craving.

This was the juiciest slab of medium rare ribeye I’ve ever had the extreme pleasure to sink my carnivorous gnashers into. I shamelessly piled whole roasted “dirty carrots” with caraway on my now heaving plate, alongside a mountain of salted crisp and fluffy King Edward chips (I don’t even like chips!) all gleefully washed down with a stunning Argentinian Malbec. This was food heaven. My toes curled. My hair bristled. Conversation and wine flowed more copiously than the Seine and at one point I believe somebody asked me a question and I totally ignored them because, food. Sorry, whoever that was, but food. Gloriously good food.

Last but not least was the sweet spot: dandelion & burdock jelly, sherbet meringue, lime and star anise sorbet. This was a great idea, to resurrect a childhood drink (dandelion and burdock) as a jelly in this fashion. Flavours were divine and presentation made quite a statement. If I had one tiny criticism of the entire meal and experience it was simply that this dish was a little too sweet for my tooth and the jelly could have been more concentrated. So whoopee me, I wheedled out one minuscule flaw in an otherwise faultless experience. Only Allah is perfect. Oh and Monica Bellucci a very close second. 

NB: Event bookers and organisers and freelance chefs take note, there are open plan demo kitchens available for hire at Brigade, as well as private dining rooms and event spaces. Enquire with Brigade for further details. Please mention Culinary World Tour when calling.

Brigade Bar & Bistro

145 Tooley St, Southwark, London SE1 2HZ
0844 346 1225

Adios Mexico City

Map showing the layout of one section of Tenochtitlán as Mexico City was once known

The sun rose and shone characteristically brightly on our last day in Mexico City. It had been an epic four days, with so much to see and take in. With such a rich and fascinating history and so many different cultures and languages, I found it amusing to compare with my homeland of England, where we speak English, and English only. The presence and influence of the Spanish obviously can’t be ignored when you visit Mexico, but there is so much more to the country than the Spanish influence alone. The native Mexica peoples and their forebears essentially created what the Spanish then came and dominated. Spain came hungry for gold and land to conquer. They took what they could get and it was often a brutal and bloody process. Fortunately however, the legacy of the Mesoamerican civilization still survives in relics, ornate stonework, sculptures, friezes and frescos, costumery and even in some texts. If you’re visiting Mexico City and are interested in history, culture and art, then you should most certainly head to the National Anthropology Museum. It’s the most visited museum in all of Mexico, attracting footfall of two million people a year, and was designed by three architects, namely Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano and Rafael Mijares. Built from volcanic stone hewn from a nearby site, the expansiveness of the space is quite a spectacle in itself, and the artefacts housed inside create yet more marvel. 

The original Aztec stone of the sun, an emblematic mandala.

Street vendors selling fruit and sweets, frequently seen around tourist areas.

This incredible mural was designed by Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo’s husband. It illustrates the history of Mexico and adorns the walls of the National Palace.

The motley crew of travel writers assembled to gaze at Rivera’s masterpiece.

We were fortunate enough to have a fantastic guide named Myrta, whose factual knowledge of detail was scholarly to say the least. Anything we wanted or needed to know, she was able to tell us or at least to find out. Contact me should you be planning a trip to Mexico City and I will gladly make the necessary introduction.

It only remains for me to thank Aeromexico for making this trip possible, the Mexico City tourist board for providing Myrta’s boundless energy and insight, and Starwood hotels for accomodating us in the Sheraton Maria Isabel.

A Corinthian column

Shooting off this last set-piece in the Alexx in Londonland montage, I feel a twinge of nostalgic whimsy coupled with the sensation of watching a rolling epic grand narrative. Closing sequences of an elegiac movie play out whilst I lie, “beached in the offering of a private diary of deferred potential” as a puffed up tutor once put it in reference to a project I surfed around for some time before eventual completion in a series of water works; that is to say, writing based around the concept of water as a vehicle for expression. Those were heady days of cerebral, abstract and conceptual horseplay in the sticks of the shire of Devon and we were all young and helplessly hopeful, way way back in the mid to late nineties. We hop skip and prance our way from one scene to the next in the meandering story lines of our little lives. At best we can seek to determine the meter and stanza, leaving crucial aspects such as plot to divine or unseen forces. We can’t write the script because fate writes it for us; rather we might daub paint on the set, bash out a couple of rousing numbers, hoping with vainglory to get our names in the credits that flash past the viewer’s eyes at the end of it all.

Corinthia was the inspiration for this theatrically filmic musing, by virtue of the grand sweeps and ornate embellishments that characterize her interior, evoking vintage Hollywood stage-set glamour, which by the tiniest flick of a switch in the imagination can transform you from Dave and Sarah of Beckenham into Clark Gable and Vivien Leigh, or Bogart and Bacall.

As with many of the places I am fortunate enough to muse about, one could easily argue such thoughts and expressions are essentially redundant, as accolades have already rolled in since their reopening as a luxury hotel in 2009. In spite of the pristine elegance it now displays, the restoration and improvements have been entirely sympathetic, in preserving the ornate fabric of the building as it was when originally built as the Metropole in 1885. The hotel became synonymous with high society living, hosting debutante balls and soirees that attracted many celebrities and eminent figures. However, on this occasion they let me in, to dine at The Northall, an exquisite restaurant space with a seasonal menu of British fare, impeccably sourced and prepared. It was a tough call initially when I was invited there, whether to dine at Massimo for Italian cuisine, The Lobby Lounge which serves an extensive selection of what are essentially bistro style dishes, or The Northall. Each option had distinct appeal, but in the end I chose The Northall, as I felt it would benefit my Canadian guest to sample the Epicurean delights of the British Isles. The menu also swayed me, as did reading the profile of the head chef, Garry Hollihead, who in his illustrious career has scooped as many as three Michelin stars.

Upon arrival, we were introduced to the sommelier, a dapper gent with a wry smile who didn’t once sneer at my oenological ineptitude (wine goofishness), and I certainly gave him enough chances. The Northall is a wine lover’s paradise, as they have an unique system of sealing each bottle to preserve it without oxidation occurring, meaning they are able to offer an extensive list of wines by the glass, coupled with the fact they offer tastings every Wednesday where they crack open the good stuff and spill the spoils of a hard day’s harvesting at a fraction of the usual cost. There are distinct advantages to having access to such a variety of wines, not least of all the ability to match specific wines to the dishes you’ve ordered. Furthermore, if a particular wine isn’t quite to your liking, they simply return it to the table and you move on to another.

Sommelier’s choice: the Northall wine table.

As a serious devotee of the ocean and fruits thereof, I usually leap at the chance to eat fresh fish, hence the choice of Cornish sardines with smoked tomato sauce and soft herbs to start. Soft, subtle and rich at the same time, this dish had me from the off.

Slow-cooked concasse conveyed subtle garlic tones, matching the charred sardines to perfection, each mouthful evoking the sea, tempered with a fresh kick from the herbs, and perfectly matched with a Pouilly Fusse that cut right through the oiliness of the fish. We also shared a potted shrimp, accompanied by Macon Blanc; this wasn’t a stand-out dish for me but certainly put a smile on Alexandra’s lips.

The highlight for me was a this exquisite roast saddle of venison with poached pear.

This was seriously tender, gamey venison, dressed with a reduction that evoked the forest, our now familiar friend the mushroom once again putting in a guest appearance. I am now a fully fledged mycophile and proud of it too. It was a faultless dish, which our sommelier matched with a fine Chilean Pinot Noir.

This is as close to perfection as fine dining gets. Food is unfussy, yet prepared with finesse, and to exacting standards. Decor is immaculate, service flawless and the location inspiring. Although the hotel was kind enough to host me, I can certainly say I would recommend Corinthia without hesitation to anybody looking for affordable luxury, fine dining and one of the best examples of British produce and cuisine available in London.

Visit the Corinthia website.

Qbic

Qbic positions itself as something of a revolutionary concept, grazing gently at the border where boutique hotel meets upmarket youth hostel, with a Dutch signature ethos centred around environmental awareness and community engagement. I had encountered their launch literature whilst searching for new and interesting places to stay, and thought it would be a nice idea to show my guest another part of town, as Whitechapel in the East End is somewhat more “real” than the City or Selsdon Park. In a bid to show London in it’s true colours yet without too much grit and grime, Qbic hit the mark. Our arrival happily coincided with one of various launch events which was attended by a stellar smattering of foodie press journos and bloggers, as well as entrepreneurs and luminaries from the food community including bagel and cake bakers and the gent responsible for launching Street Feast, East London’s pop-up answer to our equivalent of what the rest of the world calls street food. The event was branded “Future of Food” and as well as showcasing the venue, it also hosted food and drink from a range of producers and suppliers all within a fairly narrow radius of the hotel. I was particularly impressed by Pip & Nut’s warming honey cinnamon cashew nut butter and Sacred’s London gin with notes of cardamom: an excellent tipple.

To the right as you enter is a spacious lounge area with a quirky-cool retro-meets-modern feel to it: 50’s and 60’s Dutch furniture spread about to evoke a homely feel, an open fireplace, a vending machine that dispenses booze right around the clock (yes I did predictably get excited about this) and an open-plan kitchen and breakfast bar space, faced by a wall of windows onto Altab Ali park square opposite.

The panel discussion obviously focused on the future of food in London and at one point they were asked to consider which trends might surface in 2014. Further variations on the doughnut such as the cronut (hybrid of croissant and donut) and the dosant (a doughnut spliced with a croissant) were discussed. Blending foods seems a pretty hilarious method of evolving a culinary craft, but it made for playful chatter, adding a touch of jollity to the serious matter of launching a hotel. Why only yesterday, in this same spirit of blending two dishes to create one, I made a prawn and mushroom biryani omelette, which bizarrely, tasted great. What next? Caviar and chip surprise perhaps? Maybe a fruit salad kebab? Actually in Sweden of all places, I did have a meat pizza with curry sauce and banana on it, so perhaps we should all just hang up our fusion aprons and call it a day.

It was a fun event to attend, and the accommodation whilst relatively basic was perfectly acceptable, even including a wide screen tv at the foot of the bed, and a walk in shower, although, the floor leaked. The overall feel is that of modular, functional playfulness.

I would certainly recommend Qbic to anybody wishing to stay somewhere that is both trendy and economical, and only a short hop to some of the best attractions London has to offer, including hipsterville itself, Shoreditch and of course Brick Lane where you will find a plethora of Indian restaurants. The following morning, a breakfast bag containing a smoothie, cereal bar and an apple was hung on the button on the dado rail outside the room, giving us some sustenance for the day ahead, and we left feeling rested and rejuvenated. I am of the opinion that Qbic deserves the various high scores it has obtained on travel review sites since the launch.

Rooms at Qbic start at £59 per night; book here.

Londonism

Oxford street at Sunset, viewed from Paramount bar.

Seasoned travellers (those with salt and pepper sprinkled on them) will be familiar with the sensation of returning home from extended travels through unfamiliar lands, to then journey through their native territory, witnessing and observing the locale as though through the eyes of a tourist. That freshness of spectacle, wherein even small details stand out: visual, social, and cultural elements are at once analysed and interpreted to create an atmospheric blend of nuanced, experiential readings, illicits a sense of place that is altogether more alive than the previous conception. The sensation is akin to returning to somewhere that you’ve never been before.

I had occasion in November to show the sights of London to a Romanian visitor, freshly arrived from Toronto, new to the city lights and enamoured as one would expect. I set to creating a Culinary and Cultural Tour of of the city, to provide ammo for her fledgling blog. One aspect of creating this tour that I really enjoyed was the ability to see London with fresh eyes. Seeing a visitor get excited about things we take for granted: black taxi cabs, red phone boxes, Big Ben, routemaster buses, was highly entertaining and gave me a sense of national and civic pride.

Incidentally, please could somebody invent a new word for blog? Thank you. Blag? Interdiary? Interlog? This calls for a consortium of wordsmiths to collaborate and create one single word that embodies essence of what we are forced to call blogging. The new word may emerge as some sort of contorted mulch, as close to it’s kernel as Churchill was to Hitler or Pol Pot to sanity. Anything has to be better than a word that sounds like it describes something you might do when recovering from a bout of gastric flu.

The schedule created in response to her request for a mixture of history, nature, culture and fine dining, read thus:

Saturday 9th November

Arrive Gatwick 0800

Check in to Selsdon Park hotel

Sunday 10th

Kew Gardens

Traditional pub lunch

Stroll through South Bank

Check in to Crowne Plaza hotel, Blackfriars

Dinner at Buddha Bar

Monday 11th

Breakfast at Crowne Plaza

Lunch at Bar Boulud, Knightsbridge

Victoria & Albert museum

Cocktail at Voltaire Bar, Blackfriars

Dinner at Ciciannove restaurant, Blackfriars.

Overnight stay at Crowne Plaza

Tuesday 12th

Stroll on South Bank, brunch pie at Pieminister, visit Tate Modern, Tower Bridge, Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, Whitehall, Trafalgar Square

6.30 pm “Future Food” event at QBic

Overnight stay at QBic

Wednesday 13th

Buckingham Palace, Regent Street, Soho, Paramount for sundowners, Covent Garden.

Dinner at Northall, Corinthia hotel. Return to Selsdon Park hotel.

Thursday am – departure

Let’s face it, it’s easy to make London look good. She is already draped in sequins and batting glossed lashes at every prospect across the globe. She has transformed herself from a fusty, pompous empirical wench, to being the brazen starlet of Europe, in one Olympian breath. I chose obviously touristic hot spots, and aimed high in terms of culinary standard. For the sake of simplicity I am going to review each establishment individually, in date order.

Do not read this highly irrelevant blog post.